In Search of Israeli Cuisine (2016) Poster

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7/10
A delicious foodie journey that broaches some important issues
Movie_Muse_Reviews10 April 2017
If someone asked you to describe your country's cuisine and what makes it uniquely of your country, you might be hard-pressed to provide an answer. Especially for Americans, if you're country is made predominantly of immigrants and hasn't been around for even 250 years, that's a really tough question to answer. For Israel, a country that hasn't even been around for 70 years yet exists in a geographical territory with a couple millennia worth of history, that's a particularly complex question.

Although it works as an appetite-rousing foodie documentary, "In Search of Israeli Cuisine" poses this question as it follows esteemed Israeli-born American chef Michael Solomonov of Philadelphia's Zahav restaurant on a journey through Israel's many regions to discover the country's most celebrated foods and restaurants. The crew visits esteemed restaurants and home kitchens alike belonging to Israelis with Arab, Turkish, Moroccan and other backgrounds.

In a lot of respects, "In Search of Israeli Cuisine" is more of a long episode of a food/travel television program, but Solomonov's personal connection to Israel and the way exploring this food and the people making it generates a deeper conversation about culture and history makes it worthy of the documentary feature format. As the chef making the best Israeli-inspired food in the States, Solomonov lends the precise authority filmmaker Roger Sherman needed to seriously explore this topic.

What's immediately most striking about the film is the honesty that Israeli cuisine is not just a melting pot of traditions (like with America), but that many of the foods most associated with Israel (namely hummus) are definitively Palestinian in origin. This naturally ropes the Israeli-Palestinian conflict into the dialogue but in a healthy way. The fact that Arab restaurant business hurts when conflict is heightened is an indicator that food could really be a big key in bridging these two sides together.

For those more interested in just the food rather than social- political issues, learning about the origins of certain dishes and the way a region's cuisine develops based on its people and history is quite fascinating. Many of the chefs and cooks featured in the film emphasize the use of local ingredients. We tend to think of that as healthy and a "movement" or "trend" in the restaurant industry, but local ingredients are the first step in defining what a region's cuisine is, or should be. The way native foods and herbs combine with the traditions of Ashkenazi (European Jewish) or Sephardic (North African, Middle Eastern and Spanish Jewish) Jews creates the still-broad category of what might be considered Israeli cuisine.

"In Search of Israeli Cuisine" has some audio-visual issues that remind you to focus on the people, stories and food rather than the filmmaking craftsmanship, but it certainly could've been an even more vibrant viewing experience. Narratively, the story loses a little energy in the second half as we meet a diverse array of home cooks. Each brings something valuable to the film, but sequentially there's nothing naturally linking these different stops on the journey other than the theme of the movie in the most general sense.

Exploring a country to identify its cuisine and culinary history is a decent subject for a documentary, but it's the way other social issues bubble up as the journey goes deeper that make the film a worthwhile watch. In addition to your appetite, "In Search of Israeli Cuisine" will open your mind just enough to facilitate some deeper thinking about what a country's cuisine really is in the context of history, geographical and social factors, and how food and cooking can be a powerful agent beyond satisfying our taste buds.

~Steven C

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10/10
The most mouth-watering film I've ever seen.
Red-12519 July 2016
In Search of Israeli Cuisine (2016) is an Israeli film written and directed by Roger Sherman.

The film follows Israeli-American chef Michael Solomonov as he travels through Israel, sampling cuisines and talking to chefs. Solomonov is the perfect choice for a movie like this. He isn't diffident, but he isn't arrogant either. He has a friendly, open manner, which makes people comfortable when they talk with him. He's appreciative of the food, and he sometimes participates in its preparation. He watches people prepare the food. While they prepare it, they also tell him about their culture, and how it contributes to the Israeli cultural blend.

Some argue that "Israeli cuisine" as such does not exist. At the moment, Israeli cuisine is made up of Palestinian cuisine, and the cuisines brought to Israel by Jews from the lands from which the emigrated.

The Israeli/Palestinian conflict is always just beneath the surface in Israel, and people discuss it. However, there's a second cultural conflict--between Ashkenazi Jews from Eastern Europe, and Sephardic Jews from the Mediterranean region. Ashkenazi food is what most of us in the U.S. think of as "Jewish food." Sephardic food is what most of us think of as "Middle Eastern Food."

Right now, the two traditions haven't blended. Maybe that's all for the best. Two much blending may mean that these splendid distinct cuisines will be lost. What the film makes clear is that restaurants in Israeli offer many many wonderful cuisines, and, if you have enough time, you could sample them all. (Israel is a small country. It's "The size of New Jersey," as Michael likes to repeat. You can drive from the north to the south in a few hours, and find exactly the food you want.)

We saw this movie at the Dryden Theatre in The George Eastman Museum in Rochester, NY. It was screened as part of the excellent Rochester International Jewish Film Festival. It will work well on the small screen. However, as far as I can tell, it's not available on DVD yet.

P.S. The Rochester International Jewish Film Festival always has interesting movies. I'd also like to mention that it's the best managed film festival I've ever attended. Because of the hard work and expertise of the staff and volunteers, programs start on time, stay on time, and end on time. From ticket purchase to the end-of-festival party, everything works. My compliments to director Lori Harter and everyone else involved.
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