People have compared this to "Downton Abbey." It's much better. Downton had fine production value and strong acting, but uneven scripting, scattershot character development, a lot of repetition, and a heavy dollop of misplaced nostalgia. This show has its Grand Dame in the form of the Lowander matriarch, but it does not lean too heavily on her icy quips the way Downton did on the Dowager Countess. It is top notch across the board.
The "downstairs" characters who run the kitchen in "The Restaurant" are aware of the divide and power dynamic between them and the wealthy family that owns the business, but they're not forelock-tuggers. There are strong subplots about unionization, workers fighting back when being mistreated, and a cross-class romance that is believable and develops beautifully and organically as the series unfolds. Nina and Calle, who share a spontaneous kiss in the first episode, make a compelling pairing. The actress who plays Nina is a highlight of the show.
Elsewhere, the family dynamic and rivalries are well portrayed and feel believable. Gustaf and Peter are as different as brothers can be, and their ongoing push-pull makes sense as written and acted. Unlike the 6-season-long nastiness between Mary and Edith on "Downton" (mostly Mary toward Edith), it doesn't feel gratuitous or played merely for acid humor. The drama always come back to the restaurant and the family, their roles within it and their differing visions for it and how to keep it thriving.
There are characters who come and go on the series, and what they sometimes lack in screen time or development is always balanced by strong acting. They don't feel like filler and always contribute to the plot in the manner intended. The costumes and sets are wonderful, and the dashes of humor added by repeat visitors like the General and his frisky wife who frequent the restaurant are welcome and well apportioned.
Coming back to Nina, she really is the best thing about the show. She is a radiant presence, proud and yes, privileged, but never tiresome or snobbish. Her struggle and determination to play a role in the family business and also be fulfilled as a woman, her sometimes painful journey, are always compelling viewing. I found myself caring about all of the characters, but I waited every episode to see what would happen with Nina. She's a wonderful character and the actress is amazing.
Excellent production value, costumes and sets, vigorous attention to detail, strong, subtle, touching writing. A total winner of a show.
EDIT: I am now on Season 3 and it isn't quite as strong as it was for the first two seasons, but it's still a great watch. And it's true that the show doesn't do a good job of aging the characters as time marches on. The women are made to look older with different hairstyles, makeup and clothing that also reflect the changing styles. This works to some degree, though they look like very well-preserved middle aged women. But the men, Peter in particular, look almost the same age. Peter's hair has not changed once since the first episode, nor has his face been lined. It's almost like the actor had something in his contract about it, lol. Don't Touch The Hair! Calle looks older because they cut his hair shorter, gave him glasses and a bit of a pooch. But Peter literally looks exactly the same. It's distracting.
