For many, surfing conjures images of carefree drifters attuned to the rhythms of the ocean. But for several top surfers in the mid-1970s, hitting the waves meant not daydreams but death threats."It was a scary, scary time," recounts South African Shaun Tomson, winner of the 1977 surfing world title. Barely out of his teens, Tomson had arrived in Hawaii's North Shore of Oahu, aka, the "Mount Everest of surfing," two years earlier to make a name for himself. Along with Australians such as Wayne "Rabbit" Bartholomew and Mark Richards, he would soon become a pioneer of the sport, transforming his passion for surfing into an industry now worth billions -- but not before arousing anger among the local community. Their story is the subject of Bustin' Down the Door, a new action-packed documentary directed by Jeremy Gosch (Last Ride) and narrated by Oscar-nominated actor (and fellow surfer) Edward Norton.
- 7/23/2008
- by Brooke O'Neill
- backstage.com
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