I suppose all great cities have their personalities - some more unique, more distinctive than others. Clear examples in America would be, well, New York, San Francisco, New Orleans... In Ireland, surely it's Dublin. And not because it's the biggest, but because of some curious charisma, some accidental mixture of gossip and bicycles and rain and sparkling sunshine. O'Connell Street here with its buses, the River Liffey, priests, the people, Trinity College, but most of all because ...