8 June 2012 8:12 AM, PDT | The Guardian - TV News | See recent The Guardian - TV News news »

With celebrity chef cooking contests such as Kitchen Wars turning into love fests, is anger no longer a recipe for success?

Marco Pierre White's new cookery contest show began last night. You may even have watched Kitchen Wars – although you probably didn't, because it was on Channel 5 and the world needs another cooking contest like it needs to be kicked in the jaw by a horse. But should you have flicked past it, you might have been surprised by the behavior of the host.

Ever since his first series of Hell's Kitchen on ITV – during which he responded to a lighthearted Angus Deayton quip by growling "Angus, the eyes you look at are the eyes that watched my mother die" – Marco Pierre White has cultivated a savagely aggressive persona, as if he desperately wanted to out-Ramsay Ramsay. But on last night's Kitchen Wars, that persona was nowhere to be seen. »

- Stuart Heritage

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